Calligraphers there sell customised keychains to walkers, you hand over a name on the way up and collect it on the way down. They write thousands in a day, and watching one of them work was the part that stayed with me: no sketching, no hesitation, the letterforms arriving fully formed because the hand had already made them ten thousand times. I asked for a very specific name and took it home as reference. That confidence isn't something you can draw from scratch.